My Scottish Pilgrimage Hike
Judith and me on The Way of St. Cuthbert.
Judith and I would join our Pilgrimage group in Edinburgh on Tuesday, May 13, 2025. We flew to Edinburgh from Paris the day before and arrived early in the morning so we had time to explore a bit on Monday and on Tuesday morning. Judith had been in Edinburgh before, but all of Scotland was new to me. Edinburgh was a very interesting and unique place, and I'm really glad I got to see it, but honestly the buildings are all dark and and in the usual Scottish weather which we did not experience, it seems like it would be a very gloomy place.
This alligator (or is it a crocodile) greeted us in our Edinburgh Hotel.
The Edinburgh Castle overlooking the city.
Another view of the castle.
And another view.
Don't remember what this tower is.
In the city.
Wearing Scottish plaid.
A church in Edinburgh.
A statue.
Around the corner from our hotel.
The OZ Bar - owned by the son-in-law of one of my Point Reyes knitting buddies.
We thought we might eat lunch here, but found it was strictly a wet bar, no food. And the owner was out of the country, but at least we saw it. It was very close to our hotel.
Instead we ate here, right across the street from our hotel.
Judith had eaten here on her previous visit with her mother.
Greyfriars Kirkyard was also around the corner from our hotel.
I had fun exploring this while Judith relaxed at the hotel.
Quite a graveyard with very impressive tombstones.
The church in the background.
One of the very large tombstones/grave markers.
A burial room.
Another Grave Marker.
A gate out of the church yard.
Peering through the gate.
And here is the famous Greyfriar's Bobby surrounded by flowers in front of the church.
Bobby was a Skye Terrier who belonged to John Gray, a nightwatchman for the Edinburgh Police. The two were inseparable for 2 years until John Gray died in 1858. He was buried in Greyfriar's Kirkyard, and Bobby is said to have spent the next 14 years sitting on his master's grave. When they couldn't evict him the gardener and keeper built him a shelter and fed him regularly. When Bobby finally died in 1867 he was buried not far from John Gray's grave. A pretty famous dog!
A Friend of Bobby.
And his master.
A street view in Edinburgh.
Colorful store fronts on the way up to the castle.
This book in a shop window caught my eye so I had to buy it.
I really wanted to find a swimming hole in Scotland, and though I saw a few, I either wasn't prepared, or the weather was uncooperative, but the book is interesting.
Beautiful flowers coming down from the tower.
Look at all the different roof lines.
The gate into the church yard of the Parish Church of St. Cuthbert.
Since we would be walking the Way of St. Cuthbert it seemed fitting to stroll these grounds in Edinburgh.
The path leading to the church.
On Tuesday, May 13, 2025, about noon, we met the rest of our group in front St. Paul's Episcopal Church in Edinburgh to begin our Pilgrimage journey. So, just what is a pilgrimage? One definition is: "A pilgrimage is a devotional practice consisting of a prolonged journey, often undertaken on foot or on horseback, toward a specific destination of significance." (from nationaltrust.org.uk) I have taken many prolonged journeys on foot, but had not considered them "pilgrimages," however as I anticipated and participated in this one I realized I have indeed done several pilgrimages including my 170 mile trek around Lake Tahoe on the Tahoe Rim Trail in 2016, Sheila and my sojourn in Sweden that included ancestral villages, and even my walk across Auburn to the location of the hospital where I was born just a couple of months ago. And though it was not on foot, I realize that the visit to my grandfather's grave in Omaha in 2022 was a pilgrimage. The pilgrimage we were about to embark on would be 100km (62 miles, but actually over 70) on The Way of St. Cuthbert beginning in Melrose, Scotland and ending at Lindisfarne, England and take 7 days. I knew I was capable of making the distance, but worried a bit about 3 long days (10 to 13 miles each) of hiking back to back. I often do those distances, but not on consecutive days in recent years.
We would not begin our hike until Wednesday, May 14 from our hotel in Melrose, where we journeyed by bus from Edinburgh. Before boarding the bus we assembled in St. Paul's Episcopal Church for a brief orientation, prayer and some singing.
This is in Lauder, a rest stop on our way to Melrose.
Our next stop on the way to our hotel in Melrose was to view The Great Tapestry of Scotland that is on permanent display in Galashiels. The first time this very impressive work of art was on permanent display was in September of 2013 at the Scottish Parliament in Edinburgh. It then went on tour across Scotland before having a permanent home built for it in Galashiels. This impressive work of art covers the history of Scotland from prehistoric times to the present. It was stitched by 1,000 people from across Scotland, and is made up of 160 linen panels and 300 miles of wool! We had limited time to view the tapestry and to read all the descriptors, but it did give us an overview of Scottish history and culture. I couldn't take pictures of all the panels, but I did take a few and share some of them below.
The boarder depicts miniatures of all the panels.
National Health Service Founded 1948.
Oh that our nation would recognize health care as a right and not a privilege!
Our pilgrimage along St. Cuthbert's Way would take us contiguously along the route, but rather than camping or spending nights in different accommodations each night we would stay in two luxurious hotels, one in Melrose and one in Doxford. On Day 1 we would start from Melrose and then be picked up at the end of our day of hiking and returned to Melrose. On subsequent days our coach transported us to where we had left off the day before and brought us back to our hotel. It was wonderful not to have to pack up each morning.
Our group was too large for one of these small hotels so some were housed across the street.
Our large and luxurious room with two chairs!
Looking across to the Melrose Abbey.
Entrance to Priorwood Gardens in Melrose where Judith and I strolled one evening after a day of hiking.
Inside the gardens with the Abbey peaking above the wall.
A sculpture in the gardens' orchard.
Just a few doors down the street from our hotel.
Pointing the way to where we began at the Abbey, just around the corner from our hotel.
DAY 1: Wednesday, May 14, 2025
Melrose to St. Bosswells
7.5 Miles - 1400 foot ascent.
(But there was added mileage for a detour or two!)
Melrose Abbey, our starting point.
The Old Melrose Abbey, no longer standing, is where Cuthbert first began his journey as a monk.
Each day we chose a bead to tie to our day packs.
I chose this colorful green bead to begin.
And each day we began with some group time with Dirk and Carol sharing some wisdom, a poem, and/or a question for the day. As we began this pilgrimage Dirk said to pay attention to our footsteps, to consider who has been here before, and to ask ourselves, "What do I bring to this hike?"
And we're off on St. Cuthbert's Way!
Heading down the trail in the beautiful Scottish landscape.
Wonderful markers all along the trail.
Up above Melrose which is in the background.
Unfortunately Judith was not able to hike on Day 1 due to tweaking her back while loading her suitcase onto the coach in Edinburgh. She was not the only one not hiking that day, and those that stayed behind had wonderful experiences touring local sites. Judith would join us later on other days of the hike. Dirk and Carol Damonte who were on the staff of Los Altos United Methodist Church until their retirements June 30 were the leaders of the trip. They have had a long relationship with Janet Redler Travel, a tour operator in the UK, who made all the local arrangements. Janet's son Neil Redler and employee Gareth Radcliffe would be our trail guides the entire length of the hike. Janet was with us for several days taking care of those who were not hiking.
This was a detour to the top of a hill I did not take.
It was quite steep and slippery.
I could have made it up easily, but didn't want to slip and fall on the way back down on day 1!
Heading into beautiful forest.
The bright yellow is Rapeseed, grown for Rapeseed Oil, which we call Canola Oil.
We saw many bright yellow fields from our plane as we were arriving.
Just minutes before meeting this hiker and her dogs one of our group was talking about having met a local hiker two years previously when on this same hike. This was the hiker with 3 of the 4 dogs our hiker had met two years before. What a serendipity!
Our lovely lunch stop!
We sat so long that I took out a sketchbook and sketched this scene.
Sketching became a lunch practice for me each day.
This bridge lead to a detour I did take - to the Temple of Muses and Dryburgh Abbey.
The Temple of Muses
A gate on the way to the Abbey.
Arrived at Dryburgh Abbey where I opted not to take the tour, but appreciated the restroom!
Heading back to the main trail.
There was a good swimming hole in the river below, but alas I had no swimsuit in my pack!
A heron in the river
DAY 2: Thursday, May 15, 2025
St. Bosswells to Harestanes
8 Miles - 450 foot ascent.
Today's theme: What is God trying to get my attention for?
Here you see a string of folks in front of me.
I wasn't the first, but I wasn't the last either.
Pretty bridge across the River Tweed that we followed most of this day.
Some sections of the path were quite narrow.
Something to explore along the way.
Beautiful field of lowers.
It looks like the trail dead ends at the wall, but it continues left.
I learned a long time ago that what appears to be an ending to paths, and other things, is not necessarily so! If you follow to what looks like an end you just may find more path to follow!
Turning left we found a beautiful path in the woods.
Sometimes I walked and talked with others in our group, and sometimes I walked alone.
I loved doing both!
This old church with the red door would be our lunch stop for the day.
I've always enjoyed old cemeteries and the grave markers there.
This one caught my attention because the wife died at age 73 and the husband at 77.
And I wondered, is this what is supposed to catch my attention today?
I was thinking, "What a coincidence...Rob is 77 and I am 73."
But then I remembered I'm 74 and Rob is 76 - hmmm...
I always wonder about the history of the folks named on the tombstones.
Back on the trail looking across a Rapeseed field to our lunch spot at the old church.
A pretty view across a Rapeseed field.
Though most of our trail was paths along fields and through forests,
we occasionally walked on roadways.
A beautiful landscape.
We keep walking.
Farmland.
Much of St. Cuthbert's Way is through agricultural areas.
Interesting fungus.
A huge and beautiful base to this tree.
The Way was well marked.
The helmet on top depicts the Roman Road which shared several miles with St. Cuthbert's Way
There were lots and lots of rock walls!
One of many beautiful trees.
The yellow bushes on the left are a kind of Broom.
The yellow on the right is Rapeseed.
The Broom that we saw was very similar to what I grew up calling Scotch Broom, but I have since learned that maybe what I always called Scotch Broom is actually French Broom. Anyway, Broom is native in Scotland, but not in California and is a very pesky invasive species - here we could admire it and not worry about how to get rid of it!
I was surprised that I felt better after two days of hiking than after just one. I just may have what it takes to do this!
DAY 3: Friday, May 16, 2025
Harestanes to Morebattle
10 Miles - 660 foot ascent.
Today's theme: Look for what I am being taught today.
I love Lilacs!
These beauties were near the beginning of Day 3's hike.
A picturesque bridge to look at.
But not my favorite to cross as it swayed a bit.
I was happy to cross it alone.
It was at the top of two tall towers.
A beautiful open field with trees.
See the tower on the top of the hill?
We would see this at a distance for the next day or two.
A bridge we crossed before climbing a hill.
A herd of cows.
We would see a few herds of cows, but mostly we saw sheep.
They say there are more sheep than people in Scotland.
Climbing up the hill.
See the old structure?
It's the ruins of Cessford Castle.
It was also a stronghold for the Ker family in their feuds with fellow Scots.
It is thought that Andrew Ker began building the castle in 1450.
Black lambs and their momma.
Some sheep near the old castle.
A reminder of the sheep I used to have, and their wool that I spun.
For whatever reason, I really looked forward to seeing the sheep as we hiked.
A map of our journey posted near Cessford Castle.
For a time some of us walked alongside a local woman who was 79 years old and she shared with us about how she took up playing music for the first time just 2 years ago, and from the sounds of it she is quite accomplished on a variety of instruments! Wonder what new thing I might learn or improve? We didn't have a lot of opportunities to talk with local folks, but it was fun and interesting when we did.
Another beautiful rock wall not far from the end of Day 3's hike.
It would be a unique ending to our day as we turned left into a farm where we would have dinner.
We were greeted by a Scottish bag piper at the farm.
And treated to a sheep dog demonstration.
One of the sweet Herefords we met at the farm.
I'm partial to Black Angus though, since that's what I raised in 4-H.
Never saw so many "puff balls" in one place!
Inside the rustic room where we had a delicious farm to table dinner.
Our bus met us in front of the farm to take us back to our Melrose hotels.
After the end of Day 3 I was very pleased at how well I was feeling. Yes, I was tired, but not particularly sore, and looking forward to a shorter, but steeper, hike tomorrow.
DAY 4: Saturday, May 17, 2025
Morebattle to Yetholm
6.5 Miles - 1150 foot ascent.
Today's theme: What am I hiding from?
What does it mean to be found?
Many of us bought tee shirts in this shop that displayed maps of St. Cuthbert's Way.
In Memory of WWI casualties in Morebattle.
An old church being restored.
Looking across the beautiful countryside.
Though this was a short day mileage wise, we had to climb a long way!
And it was good to do some of the climbing with Judith who felt ready for the challenge of hiking today. She posed another question to ponder, "What do I need to give up?" Hmm... some day it will be the Camp Hosting Rob and I love doing, and when that day comes I anticipate being grateful for the experience we have had doing it, and looking forward to what is the new thing.
Some Black Angus on our path.
Looking across another rock wall.
Half way Point, and also the highest point.
Where we stopped for lunch, with the rock wall to shield us from the wind.
And now we're headed down the other side.
One of many stiles we would use to climb over fences.
Stiles are not my favorite things, and some are better (or worse) than others.
Lots of yellow broom in the valley below.
The tower of Kirk (church) Yetholm, near our day's end.
The Pub, and pile of shoes, where we would wait for our bus to return us to Melrose.
DAY 5: Sunday, May 18, 2025
Yetholm to Wooler
13 Miles - 1900 foot ascent.
Today's theme: Thresholds
A colorful sheep to cheer us on our longest day, and highest ascent.
Finally looking like Scottish weather.
We never had rain along the hike - very lucky!
Entering Northumberland National Park.
This actually looked like a shelter.
I loved the wide open country of the National Park.
Little white fuzzy thing.
I must have been too tired at the end of this long day to take a picture of Wooler where we ended. On this fifth day of the hike we had to pack our bags in the morning so they could be transported to our next hotel in Doxford. It would prove to be a very unique and grand place!
Entrance to Doxford Hall Hotel.
An entrance our coach would not fit through.
Looking at the building from a garden.
Another statue.
It was quite the estate!
With many lovely gardens.
Sign in front of the huge maze.
What a maze!
One could get lost in there.
I would have loved to explore this maze more, but didn't have enough time before or after hiking.
A common area inside Doxford Hall Hotel.
A lovely stairway.
Though this was a grand old Hall, our room was actually pretty small.
The grounds were expansive and beautiful, and though I was tired, I had to explore!
A painting on the wall.
More of the grounds.
Solar panels on a farm building.
A horse in a field - we saw some horse along the way, but not many.
Beautiful Flowers.
Approaching the cave through the woods.
There's the limestone cave.
Still had some climbing to do when we left the cave.
A lovely pond.
Some curious lambs.
But we finally made it to this coffee shop in Fenwick 
Sand and water.
I chose to go barefoot!
Holy Island in front of us.
Looks like worms, but it's just the mud tunnels worms went through.
DAY 6: Monday, May 19, 2025
Wooler to Fenwick
11.5 Miles - 850 foot ascent.
Today's theme: Who is my neighbor?
Our next to last day on the trail - another long one, but not so much climbing.
I worried how I would do on these back to back long days,
but I was surprised to not be too tired, nor sore at all!
Notice the different way marker on the rocks.
And this wooden one.
Beautiful scenery.
At this corner we would take a quick lunch break.
A Welcoming sign to pilgrims.
The Welcoming house - we would not encounter the folks there, but appreciated their welcome sign.
A lovely rock garden.
We are reaching St. Cuthbert's Cave.
The place where monks are said to have hid Cuthbert's remains on their way to Durham Cathedral.
This was almost 200 years after his burial at Holy Island (Lindisfarne).
They were fleeing the Viking's invasion.
Pretty big inside.
Some carvings on the rock.
And going back down.
Quite a flock of sheep.
Neil said the end of the day's hike was just around the corner from this house.
Neil's definition of "just around the corner" and mine are different.
that stayed open past closing time for us to get snacks.
With nearly 30 of us we made it worth it for them I think!
The last leg of St. Cuthbert's Way as we leave Fenwick.
Very intimidating warnings before crossing.
Crossing safely after getting the all clear.
DAY 7: Tuesday, May 20, 2025
Fenwick to Lindesfarne (Holy Island)
5 Miles - no ascent.
Today's theme: Let the pilgrimage lead you to your destination
Our first task on Day 7 was to prepare our luggage for transport to the new hotel we would stay at after completing the hike. It was bittersweet to be ending this pilgrimage. I was very please with how well I had done thus far, but looked forward to looking back on the seven days. I admit to some anxiety as we approached the last leg of the journey - it would be short, but involved crossing a tidal area that I had heard various reports of: the worst mud you'll ever walk through, someone reported falling in it on a previous trip, the five miles feels like 11, etc. etc. As one of the oldest on the trip I constantly was concerned with not wanting to hold others up - which I actually never did, but maybe today I would. I wasn't sure if I would wear sports sandals to cross the sand, or go barefoot. I don't go barefoot at all anymore, and yet...I wanted the full experience. We would have the choice of crossing in the sand and water or walking on the causeway road. Several of our group chose the road for various good reasons, but I knew I would cross on the sand.
Looking across the sheep to Holy Island, our destination.
It was still a ways to hike until the crossing.
Now we can see the causeway road that crosses the tidal area.
And here is something else to add to anxiety - a super fast train whose tracks we had to cross!
Gareth calling - on his first call we were told to wait for a train.
We barely heard it's approach before it whizzed by.
But we were told not to dawdle!
Finally made it to the tidal crossing.
Here we are before the group splits with some continuing on the road, and some diverting to the sand.
The warning is for the road and the sand crossings.
And I loved it - just thinking about it now as I type makes my feet happily tingle!
And a tower for refuge in case the tide comes in.
The poles that mark the way across the sand.
More water.
And we made it!
We shared communion outside the ruins of the Priory.
Inside the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory.
A statue of St. Cuthbert.
Flowers on rocks inside the ruins.
More of the flowers.
Near the old Priory.
The church and surrounding graveyard.
Inside this pretty little church.
A statue inside the back of the church of the monks carrying the casket of St. Cuthbert.
A very interesting listing of all who served this church from Aidan in 635, including Cuthbert in 685, through the Bishops and Priors of the Roman Church through dissolution in 1537 and the advent of the Vicars with the Church of England in 1544. And I noted that the current Vicar, since 2019 is Sarah Hills, a woman.
A sign about Pilgrimage to Hold Island.
Me inside the old priory.
I love this picture of me crossing the sand.
A treasured memory of a treasured Pilgrimage!
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